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Amalfi Coast
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Cuori di Sfogliatella
First stop right off the train at Piazza Garibaldi: huge range of sfogliatelle — sweet, savoury, cream-and-pistachio cones, even ice-cream filled in summer.
Gino Sorbillo Artista Pizza Napoletana
Her second pick for Neapolitan pizza — try the Diavola; expect a queue outside on Via dei Tribunali.
Il Vero Bar del Professore
A must-stop: their famous hazelnut espresso (nocciolato), pistachio babà al rum and zeppole di San Giuseppe.
Officina del Mare
Her go-to in Naples when you want fish over pizza: sea urchins, red prawns and oysters straight off the ice, outdoor tables in Piazzetta Marinari.
Piazza del Plebiscito
Come at golden hour — the colonnade, Royal Palace and street singers make the square magical.
Trattoria dei Mori
Via San Nicola 20: fried zucchini flowers, gnocchi alla sorrentina, tuna-tomato-caraway pasta and the best panna cotta with peach sauce.
Zia Esterina Sorbillo Antica Pizza Fritta
Can't do Naples without Sorbillo's 'Zia Esterina' pizza fritta on Via dei Tribunali — hot and delicious; you can ask for it without meat, just cheese and tomato.
Agriturismo Il Giardino di Vigliano
Order the limoncello spritz - insanely good - and walk through their lemon grove.
Antica Pizzeria e Friggitoria Dal Presidente
Try the frittatina — fried pasta with meat, peas and cheeses — eaten on the street on Via dei Tribunali.
Caseificio Perrusio Carmela
Stop on the way back: 2 kg fresh mozzarella di bufala, 1.5 kg caciocavallo and fresh bread for €17.
Castel dell'Ovo
Walk the causeway at golden hour — street singers, boats and views over the bay toward Posillipo.
Galleria Umberto I
Classic spot to eat a sfogliatella riccia — try it warm, cold and even the savory version.
La Sfogliatella Mary
Get the sfogliatella riccia warm inside Galleria Umberto I — warm and incredibly tasty.
Lungomare Caracciolo
Watch the sunset from the rocks on the shoreline, with the Bay of Naples and cruise ships in view.
Lungomare Santa Lucia
Walk it for sea air and a Vesuvius view across the bay; on hot days the sea breeze saves you.
Naples street fish market
Tiny fishmonger stalls in the alleys sell catch brought in daily from Procida; squid was €17.99 a kilo.
Serafino ai Tribunali
Fried food stall: get a paper cone of fried vegetables, cauliflower and croquettes, or quality deep-fried seafood.
Via dei Tribunali
The street for pizza fritta and tiny espresso bars in the historic centre.
Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo
Don't skip this fried-pizza stop even if there's a queue.
Friggitoria Via dei Tribunali
Fried-food stalls scattered around town serve a cuoppo cone of mixed fried fish — she took fried anchovies. For seafood lovers.
Piazza Tasso
Midweek it's quiet; on Sunday the cafes and bars are packed with local tourists. The town's tourist train leaves from here.
B&B Relais Piazza del Plebiscito
Via Solitaria 39, in the alleys of the city centre and seconds from the sea — saves time on commuting.
Basilica Reale Pontificia San Francesco da Paola
The domed church with the colonnade closing off Piazza del Plebiscito — best light at sunset.
Borgo Marinari
Little harbour under Castel dell'Ovo lined with waterfront restaurants — lovely at sunset.
Cantina Centrale 92
€1 glass of wine, €1.5 prosecco/spritz, €1 limoncello shot — fun and cheap, but she called the Aperol the most disgusting she's tasted.
Forcella
Walk the cobbled lanes hung with laundry, Italian flags and Napoli shirts, with locals eating at outdoor tables.
Leopoldo Infante
Try the babà al rum in its many versions, plus zeppole, cream puffs with wild berries and pastiera.
Palazzo Reale di Napoli
The arcaded Royal Palace facade faces Piazza del Plebiscito.
Pizzeria Donna Sofia ai Tribunali
Go for the fried pizza filled with ricotta and cherries, and the folded pizza a portafoglio.
Trattoria e Pizzeria da Mammarella
Order the pizza a portafoglio (folded pizza) with zucchini cream and smoked provola, straight out of the oven.
Amorino
Via San Cesareo 45: vanilla+pistachio with gianduia sauce, amarena and whipped cream looks amazing but is too sweet to finish.
L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele
One of her two picks for real Neapolitan pizza — classic margherita or marinara only.
Passione di Sofì
A wonderful place on Via Toledo 206 to try Neapolitan pizza fritta.
Via Luigi De Maio
Lively street of cafe-bars, scooters and flower pots leading down from Piazza Tasso.
Volo Fiori
Photogenic alley scene: the shop's big red wicker heart hangs over the street among the flowers.
Basilica di Santa Chiara
Sights · basilica
Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo
Sights · church
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo
Stop here for the Guglia dell'Immacolata obelisk with the Gesù Nuovo church dome behind it.
Piazza Garibaldi
Sights · square
Quartieri Spagnoli
Quiet backstreets with Vespas, laundry lines and big painted portrait murals.
Via San Gregorio Armeno
The decorated Christmas alley of the old town — extremely crowded in December.
Build a trip from Michal Milrad's picks
Ask about Amalfi Coast